iStick Mod by Eleaf
The iStick by Eleaf is a tiny little box mod that comes in 3 different models, a 30 watt, 20 watt and an ultra mini-sized 10 watt. In this review we’ll go over all the features of this ultra-mini box mod and why this is one is a must have for any vaper!
» Get the 30 watt for $34.99
» Get the 20 watt for $34.99
» Get the 10 watt Mini for $24.99
Which one is right for me?
Eleaf have offered 3 models to cover a variety of needs. I have to say I’m very impressed with this lineup – these are all very solid mods, they are tiny and they are very affordable.
One thing you need to understand is the limitations of each. The 30 watt will let you sub-ohm vape down to .4 ohm builds. This means it will indeed work with the Aspire Atlantis and the Kanger Sub Tank. It will also work with anything you build yourself as long as its above .4 ohms.
The 20 watt and the 10 watt mini will work with anything over 1 ohm.
You also need to understand that these are tiny. 22mm diameter tanks and atomizers will look really big on these devices.
Personally my favorite pairing is the 20 watt model paired with the Aspire Nautilus Mini. My sweet spot is the 1.8 ohm coil at 15 watts. This is a very nice vape and is my official travel rig now. It just works – the battery life is outstanding and there’s no fiddling around with anything.
The iStick is tiny. I mean really tiny! At only 72mm tall, this thing is a beast performer delivering up to 20 watts of power and features a built in, 2200 mAH battery. This makes it absolutely essential for travel, work, driving or any other situation where you want a simple box mod. And this one is better than the others in that it delivers more power in a smaller size.
iStick Features
The iStick features a 510 connection and includes an ego adapter. Its not built for sub-ohm builds, which isn’t really a deal breaker. There’s still plenty of power, you just can’t go throw your sub-ohm coiled favorite RDA on here. But that’s really not the point. I travel quite a bit and honestly I get tired of mech mods and juice when dealing with airports or when driving a rental car. With the iStick I can carry a few tanks, throw one on the iStick and get a very good vape when I don’t want to fool around with anything else.
iStick Mod by Eleaf
The eleaf iStick features 3 buttons and a nicely readable display. You’ve got the fire button and 2 smaller “up and down” buttons for adjusting the amount of wattage or voltage depending on what mode you’re in.
Press the fire button 5 times consecutively to turn on and off the device. Press it 3 times consecutively to switch between variable voltage and variable wattage. I prefer wattage personally on this type of device as the chip will automatically calculate the voltage. Variable voltage is an older mode that mods originally worked with – its there if you want it, but the much preferable mode of variable wattage is probably what you want to be in.
The LCD display is beautiful. When you turn the device on, you’ll see the ohm reading for your atomizer, voltage, wattage and remaining battery life. As you’re firing you see a timer counting the seconds that have passed. If you get to 10 the unit stops firing. This is essentially a built in safety to keep it from burning up if you forget to lock the device after you’ve put it in your pocket.
In addition, the iStick also features low voltage protection, low battery protection, and atomizer short protection. This is a very well thought out device.
The performance is excellent. I’ve not tested this scientifically, but I’ve got several other variable wattage mods. With my Aspire Nautilus I like to keep the wattage at 15 or so. I’m using the 1.9 ohm coils. The iStick performs as well as any other device I’ve compared it to and is a LOT cheaper!
Obviously as you can see from this site I’ve got a lot of vaping gear. But there are times where I want something really simple that just works. In fact, at this price point I might pick up a second so I’ve got a spare if I forget to charge or something. I use this non-stop while I’m traveling because its just so simple and easy to use. There’s nothing to fiddle with which makes it perfect for vaping in the car as well. I really like this device.
This mod is not only great for seasoned vaper’s but I think its perfect for beginners. I used to recommend the iTaste MVP over any starter kit, but the iStick now blows the doors off of the MVP. This little mod is a game changer and I highly recommend getting yours today!
» Get the 30 watt for $34.99
» Get the 20 watt for $34.99
» Get the 10 watt Mini for $24.99
Its even better if you use the 20w istick with the kanger subtank mini.
As long as you use the 1.2 ohm coil and not the 0.5.
I was using the istick with the nautilus mini which is a good combo but the combo above is even better.
Your right. The istick 20w is a excellent device
you used the new sub tank mini with it????
I love this device. It’s size and power lets you put out some decent clouds in stealth mode: black 30w, black Little Boy (dual macros @ 0.7). Looks nice and sleek plus you can palm the whole rig. It’s not a world beater, but it’s simple, small, and reliable…… Great for work and travel.
I got the 20W with the Nautilus Mini about 2 weeks ago and have no complaints my first was the Kanger Evod glass which was garbage in comparison. I have a question if anyone can answer I’d appreciate it. I noticed that the ohm value has increased since I first started to use it. The coil is 1.8 ohm and rightnow the display reads 2.1ohms yesterday it was at 2.0ohms. Is that a sign the coil is going bad or is that normal? It’s the same coil that was in what I first bought the tank.
Completely normal, they’re accurate to 0.1-0.2 ohm’s so you will tend to see a bit of fluctuation in the ohm’s reading. 🙂
I just got one of these and I am a complete noob to vaping. One query I would have and perhaps you can help me out. Is this device meant to drop te watts when you are not using it? I have had mine up at 9w but then I’ll go to use it a minute later and its dropped to 4.2 – 4.3
Thanks
Как грамотно подобрать детали для восстановления кузова
Разрушение кузова — это естественный процесс, с которым сталкивается практически любой машина со временем. Чаще всего первыми под удар попадают ремонтные пороги и арки, так как они подвергаются постоянному воздействию влаги, реагентов и дорожной грязи. Чтобы качественно привести в порядок кузов, необходимо правильно выбрать подходящие запчасти.
1. Оригинал или аналог?
Первый и самый важный вопрос при покупке: стоит ли брать оригинальные запчасти или можно обойтись более бюджетными вариантами?
– OEM-запчасти: Это гарантированный способ получить точное соответствие по всем размерам. Их параметры стального листа полностью соответствует заводским стандартам, а качество покрытия обеспечивает долгий срок службы. Однако высокая цена часто заставляет владельцев искать альтернативы.
– Неоригинальные детали: Они позволяют существенно сэкономить деньги на ремонт. Но здесь важно понимать, что стандарт производства может сильно варьироваться. Дешевые варианты часто имеют отклонения в геометрии, что усложнит работу мастера.
2. Технические характеристики: на что смотреть?
При осмотре товара в магазине или изучении характеристик онлайн, обращайте внимание на следующие параметры:
Толщина металла Это критический фактор. Если металл будет тоньше оригинала, то окисление проявится в разы быстрее. Правильный выбор подразумевает использование стали, сопоставимой с той, что была установлена на заводе.
Геометрия и прилегание Даже если габариты стали в норме, криво сваренная деталь создаст проблемы. Неправильные формы приведут к тому, что при замене возникнут зазоры. Это не только портит внешний вид, но и создает условия для скопления влаги в стыках пороги фрилендер 2
Защитный слой Хорошие детали кузова должны иметь базовый слой защиты. Если вы планируете затем обновить цвет деталь, наличие первичного грунта будет огромным плюсом.
3. Пошаговый алгоритм выбора
Чтобы снизить вероятность ошибки, следуйте этой инструкции:
1. Точный замер повреждений: Перед заказом нужно точно понимать масштаб проблемы. Иногда проще заменить весь элемент, чем пытаться латать дыры в старом металле.
2. Сверка с каталогом: Всегда проверяйте код запчасти по VIN-коду вашего машины. Ошибки в моделях или годах выпуска — самая частая причина возвратов.
3. Анализ комментариев: Посмотрите, что пишут другие люди про конкретного поставщика. Если у сторонней детали часто жалуются на кривую геометрию, лучше поискать другой вариант.
Резюме
Грамотная покупка элементов остова — это баланс между бюджетом и долговечностью. Если бюджет позволяет, выбирайте заводские детали, если нет — ищите проверенные неоригинальные запчасти с хорошей репутацией и правильной параметрами листа. Помните, что правильная установка — это лишь половина успеха; фундаментом всегда служит надежная запчасть.